Prune These 5 Plants in March: Monty Don’s Guide to More Blooms

But anyone who prunes the right shrubs in March will reap the rewards in summer.

More happens in the garden between the first buds and the final night frosts than many people realise. TV gardener Monty Don and other experts identify five specific plants for which pruning in March can make the difference between abundant flowers and a disappointing season.

Why March pruning sets up the flowering season

As daylight increases and temperatures gradually rise, many plants begin to restart their metabolism. This is precisely when woody plants respond particularly well to a maintenance prune. They direct their energy into vigorous young shoots, which are where flowers will later form.

Start spring pruning by removing dead, diseased and damaged growth. Such stems drain energy and prevent light reaching the centre of the plant. Taking them out improves airflow and lets more sun reach the remaining branches. This lowers the risk of fungal disease and encourages denser, healthier growth.

“Pruning in March directs the plant’s energy specifically into young shoots – and therefore into more, and often larger, flowers.”

Monty Don advises tackling this work during the first third of March, once new buds are becoming visible. Shrubs that flower on fresh wood benefit especially, including many roses, butterfly bush (Buddleja), certain clematis and some hydrangea varieties.

Monty Don’s straightforward rule

For successful pruning, Monty Don points to one guiding principle: “Always cut to something.” This simple phrase contains an essential technique.

Every cut should finish just above a live bud or side shoot, rather than in the middle of dead wood. The plant can then direct nutrients to that point and produce strong new growth there. A bare stump, by contrast, often dries out, creates an entry point for fungi and becomes an unnatural obstruction within the shrub.

In mild areas, it can be tempting to reach for the secateurs as early as February. Experts advise against this while severe frosts are still possible. Young shoots may turn black and die overnight. Waiting until March gives fresh growth a better chance of coming through undamaged.

Use sharp bypass secateurs for pruning, as they cut like scissors rather than crushing stems like pliers. Clean blades make smooth wounds and help reduce disease. Thin, soft growth can be shortened with thoroughly cleaned household scissors.

These 5 plants should be pruned in March

1. Roses – a spring-pruning staple

Roses appear near the top of almost every professional’s March checklist. According to plant specialists at British garden centres, now is the ideal time: buds should be starting to swell, but not yet fully open.

• Cut all dead, blackened or damaged stems back to healthy wood.
• Remove inward-growing and crossing branches to keep the centre open and airy.
• Cut upright shoots above an outward-facing bud, so the rose grows outwards rather than into its centre.
• Generally reduce bush roses by one third to one half.

Climbing roses need a slightly different approach. Keep the main stems, but shorten the lateral flowering shoots to a few buds. This retains the rose’s shape while encouraging fresh growth from numerous points.

2. Late-flowering clematis – so flowers do not sit only at the top

Clematis that flower from summer into early autumn, often described as Group 3, produce flowers solely on new wood. If their long stems are left unpruned, the blooms gather high up on the support, leaving little to see at eye level.

Experienced gardeners cut these clematis back firmly in March:

• Shorten every stem to strong buds in the lower part of the plant.
• Remove old, dried-out wood entirely.
• Finally, retain an open but sturdy basic framework.

The result is a plant that grows strongly from the base and distributes its flowers much more evenly later in the season.

3. Butterfly bush (Buddleja) – less wood, more flower spikes

Without pruning, butterfly bush soon becomes a tangle of old wood with only a few flowers held high above the ground. Because it blooms on new shoots, it can cope with quite a hard cutback.

In March, many professionals follow this method:

• Remove all old flower heads completely.
• Cut every shoot back to a low, sturdy framework, often to around knee to hip height.
• Take out weak branches and any growing towards the centre altogether.

This compact base produces numerous new spring shoots carrying dense, long flower spikes. It also keeps the shrub at a manageable size and makes it less likely to split or flop apart.

4. Tree mallows (Lavatera) and fuchsias – rejuvenation instead of woodiness

Lavatera grows vigorously, becomes woody quickly and then tends to fall apart. A hard cut in March keeps the shrub youthful:

• Reduce all shoots to a few strong main branches.
• Make cuts only just above clearly visible buds.
• Remove very old, brittle branches completely.

Fuchsias are somewhat more sensitive. Many gardeners wait until the first new shoots can be seen, when the plant reveals which sections are still alive.

A typical approach for hardy garden fuchsias is:

• Remove every fully brown, dry stem.
• Shorten the remaining shoots to roughly ten centimetres above ground level.
• Always cut directly above healthy buds.

This creates a fresh, dense framework that will offer far more flower buds in high summer.

5. Selected hydrangeas – large flower heads after a bold cut

Two hydrangea groups also benefit from confident March pruning: panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) and smooth hydrangeas such as ‘Annabelle’ (Hydrangea arborescens). Both flower on new growth.

If you are too cautious here, the result is often long, thin stems and relatively small flowers. A stronger cut may initially seem drastic, but it produces sturdier branches that can support the blooms.

How hard can you really prune?

Many amateur gardeners worry about cutting off “too much”. Looking at how the plant flowers provides the answer. If it blooms on new wood, a hard March prune is nearly always possible and is often desirable. If it flowers on the previous year’s wood, prune very carefully or wait until after flowering.

One straightforward practical tip is to check which group your plant belongs to before cutting. Small labels on the shrub, a note on your phone or an entry in a garden diary can prevent mix-ups next spring.

Practical steps for a healthy spring start

After pruning, inspect the soil as well. A thin layer of compost around the root area supplies nutrients for new growth. In particularly heavy soil, adding a little sand or fine grit can also help prevent waterlogging.

Doing too much pruning at once can overwhelm shrubs. Major work, such as rejuvenating neglected bushes, is best spread over two or three years. This leaves enough green foliage to support the roots and allows the plant to recover more reliably.

The same principles apply on a smaller scale in compact gardens or on balconies. Roses in containers, clematis in pots and compact hydrangeas on the patio all benefit from thoughtful pruning in March. With a few well-placed cuts, what appear to be bare frameworks can become dense, flower-filled focal points-often far more impressive than their appearance in late winter suggests.